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Hiking in Cretan White Mountains-Lefka Ori

Writer: Ipek Ipek

Updated: Dec 23, 2023

A Self Discovery Journey - Part

Right before making significant choices in my life, I found myself blending a series of past experiences and reflections that, starts with going on a journey through the stunning beauty of the Cretan White Mountains, known as Lefka Ori, surprisingly, found common ground with Dr. Dalton-Smith's "7 Ways of Resting".


Now, you might be wondering how a mountainous adventure and a rest methodology come together, and indeed, it all was even blended with the end of a relationship!


In this upcoming series, I invite you to join me as I navigate the peaks and valleys, both literal and metaphorical, of the White Mountains. Together, we'll explore not only the breathtaking landscapes but also delve into the profound lessons developed from Dr. Dalton-Smith's insights on rest. Brace yourself for a narrative that may start with heartbreak but promises to extend into a meaningful exploration of self-discovery, healing and a profound life manifesto. Let's go!


 

Hiking in Cretan White Mountains - Lefka Ori

The White Mountains, also known as Lefka Ori, dominate a significant portion of the central area in West Crete, standing as the primary geographical landmark in the region. Made mostly of light grey to bluish or black limestone, White Mountains got their name because their peaks stay white or beige in colour. During summer and fall, the limestone looks beige, and in winter and spring, the peaks are covered in snow, giving them a constant white appearance.


The most remarkable adventure of Hiking in Cretan White Mountains is reaching the summit of Pachnes (2453m). While it might seem challenging at first, the ascent is quite achievable if you book a hiking tour.


As someone who often explores Chania City and has already enjoyed the beauty of its famous beaches, I was willing to uncover the wilder and more elevated wonders of the island. Preferring not to rely on personal recommendations in general, I simply identified a mountainous region on the map without thinking too much what to expect about. This freedom to go with the flow is what I cherish most about solo travel and having generous time at the destinations I visit. With my willingness of going "wild", I ended up at a small remote village called Agios Ioannis at the western side of the Region of Sfakia, that is a mountainous area in the southwestern part of the Crete island. My stay at Alonia Guest House, a remote and fascinating place, profoundly shaped my experience, making it unique and unforgettable. Before I delve into the details of Alonia Guest House, let me share how I reached this region from Chania.

My first stop before reaching Agios Ioannis was another village called Anopolis.

How to reach Sfakia and Anopolis from Chania by bus:


Cretan Island

From the Central Bus Station in Chania, conveniently situated near the old town, two daily bus schedules (7 am and 2 pm) are available heading towards Sfakia, with the final stop being the village of Anopolis. You can either simply buy your bus ticket from the counter at the bus station or buy it online. The trip lasts about 1 hour 40 minutes and ticket costs 7,60 EUR. Just like every journey on the island of Crete, breathtaking landscapes accompany you along the way.


When I eventually reached Anopolis, the nearest village to Alonia Guest House accessible by public transport, little did I know I was about to add another page to the book of my life's silliness. But first, let me get into the scene!


After about a two-hour bus journey in the July heat, I stepped into a mountain village with a fantastic sense of freshness, as the breeze cooled my sweaty legs. I made my way to the Taverna just around the corner, a few steps from the bus stop, and began to wait for the owner of Alonia Guest House, who had promised to pick me up from there. In the summer heat, I absolutely adore nestling and lounging under the tree shadows that envelop us with the help of the breeze. Enjoying this cozy moment couldn't happen without a snack, especially when everything in Crete tastes nothing short of amazing.


Xorta \ Horta (Greek Greens)
Xorta \ Horta (Greek Greens)

Sending one of my favorite specialties from Crete to my stomach, I was unaware of the wonderful experiences that await me in the next few days. I was also a few seconds away from realizing the sillines of what I had done. I added another absurdity to the series of foolish mistakes by forgetting my suitcase in the bus's luggage compartment. Also, I wasn't surprised at myself. That's just how I roll.


Anyway, I quickly alerted the taverna owner, who promptly attempted to call the bus driver who locked the bus and went home. "It is his siesta time" the taverna owner said, the driver was unreachable. Well, how do you feel at such situation? Honestly, I don't remember how I felt at the moment of realising my luggage wasn't available and the guest house owner was about to pick me up and drive me about 10 kilometers away. Yet, what remains vivid in my memory is the reassuring words of the taverna owner, clearly stating, "Do not worry, we will get your luggage and bring it to you." I'm often asked why I visit Crete so often that also enables me to reflect what is that makes my experiences so special in there besides its breathtaking beauty. Cretan People it is with their legendary hospitality! Cretan people's hospitality isn't overwhelming; it's not about trying to impress anyone. It's simply a genuine reflection of who they are. Moreover, they won't necessarily engage with you unless you're open to it, but they are always there when you need help without taking advantage of the situation. Almost all the Cretans I happened to talk to spoke English, making communication very easy. They are simply amazing – hospitable, cool, and genuine. In Crete, I feel an unparalleled sense of safety and peace, you go back and find the same people (remembering you) running the same shops, delivering service, cooking your meals, making every moment truly special.


Alonia Guest House:



Adonis who picked me up from the Taverna and also reassured saying "They will bring your luggage" with a confident manner, drove me about 20 minutes with the final destination being Alonia Guest House.


Situated at the end of the road (literally), surrounded by impressive mountains and lots of olive trees, Alonia guest house is very nicely located, serving as an excellent starting point for the surrounding hiking routes, and I had the opportunity to explore two of them. One of them was recommended by Adonis who himself maintains the signs, and the second one that is White Mountains Peak, suggested by Manosus the Taverna owner who brought my luggage driving to the end of the road, Alonia Guest House in the evening. Manosus and his family also organizing White Mountain Trips in Crete.


Alonia Guest House is a slice of heaven. You have everything you need to have a peace of mind and nothing more. No ugly noise as it is literally at the end of the road. The only sound sequence you hear is meditative ringing of sheep bells. The food is simply the best (one of the best I've ever eaten) with regional and natural ingrediaents, served by the owners. No don't need a special effort to be able mediatate and relax here; you just simply let yourself into the arms of the wild but curing nature. The olive trees, the wind, the blue sky, the sunset, the sheeps will know what to do on your well-being.


Hiking in Cretan White Mountains - Pachnes mountaintop


The most impressive excursion of the White Mountains you can do is at Pachnes mountaintop, which may initially seem very challenging but can be accomplished without much difficulty if you book a hiking your supported by 4x4 cars. Adventurers can access the peak with a thrilling 4x4 ride from Anopolis, followed by a fascinating 2-3 hours hike. The journey displays spectacular views of craters, wild sheeps and shepherd's houses, offering a glimpse into the region's rich history.



You will be driven up to the end of the dirt road (2000m) by 4x4. You will hike the rest up to the peak (2453m)

It was my very first mountain hike, and as a result, I experienced emotions I had never felt before. I'll delve into those feelings, the essence of this story, but let me set the scene first! After being dropped off at the 2000m, there were still various colors, textures, and stimuli to behold, including plants. Flowering plants proudly revealed themselves among the stones with great determination, offering an interesting contrast in this environment. However, as we ascended, the array of colors and textures gradually diminished, giving way to the simplest possible palette. A sky in the brightest shade of blue, stones in beige hues (from which the White Mountains get their name), a gentle breeze against my face, and the occasional distant ringing of sheep bells. There I was, alone in a universe without noise, without notifications, with as few colors and components as possible.


Now, I want you to pause for a moment. Just look around, whereever you are, raise your awareness about the multitude of elements you encounter — observe the different colors, textures, devices, various shades of light, and sounds that surround you. When you go out, if you recall these lines, notice how many different messages, like signs, traffic lights, and advertisements, bombard us. Our cognitive system processes these messages without conscious awareness, and the frequency of the messages has an impact on our cognitive state.


It took me a short time to grasp and get used to all the stimuli around me because there were really very few elements, so there was nothing to distract me or take me out of the moment. In this way, I was hypnotized on my way to the peak, focused on my path and speed. The hiking trail to the peak is not too rough, but it is a path that requires caution. In case of carelessness, it is quite possible to have an accident and get injured. That's why I kept my eye on my fast paced steps. 


But after a while, I realized that being so focused on staying safe meant I missed out on appreciating my surroundings. It also created a tunnel vision that prevented me from fully appreciating my surroundings. I didn't notice where I was, the changing scenery, or the possibility of alternative paths. I was so wrapped up in making sure I didn't stumble that I forgot to enjoy the journey. Realizing this didn't mean I should stop being careful, though. This was the moment to understand the significance of taking a break. Just a pause—breathe, look around, figure out where you are, whether you're on the right path, or if there's another path you'd like to explore. Because the journey itself held equal significance to reaching the destination. Slowing down, taking breaks, and being mindful made the entire adventure accident-free, enjoyable, and truly meaningful. It's not just about the destination; it's about savoring every step of the way.


Just like that, I stumbled upon one of the most profound lessons of my life, a lesson that became a personal manifesto. I realized that, to maintain a safe, functional, and sustainable lifestyle, I needed to grant myself breaks whenever I felt the need.


As we wrap up this series, I'm excited to share what's next. Stay tuned for two upcoming series: '7 Ways of Resting' and 'Navigating My Latest Breakup.' Each will delve into unique aspects of life, offering insights, reflections, and perhaps a touch of inspiration. Your continued engagement is invaluable, and I look forward to exploring these new narratives with you.


 
 

3 Comments


Sophia D.
Sophia D.
Dec 30, 2023

💙

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Juanma Johansson
Juanma Johansson
Dec 20, 2023

I love this, I love the narrative, the storytelling. The way you create a picture in my head of what is going on. Love it. And I am not jealous at all of all the traveling you will do and the experiences you will have. I honestly can't wait for the next story.

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bubblepaste
Dec 20, 2023

by reading this beautiful experience, it makes me wanna want to have it as well! Beautiful photos, landscapes, people, food! Well done Ipek! Now I have a new destination in my list : )

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Hey there! I'm Ipek, the explorer and storyteller behind GoingPlacesWithMe.com.

About Me

Hey there! I'm Ipek, the explorer and storyteller behind GoingPlacesWithMe.com. I believe that life is a collection of moments, and each journey is an opportunity to uncover new stories. Here on my blog, I blend my personal experiences with a passion for travel and lifestyle, creating a space where you can join me in the adventure.

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